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Nepal; home to Everest, the Nepalese and if you believe them, the Yeti

Other | Wednesday 12th June 2013 | Annalisa

A visit to Nepal in some circles is synonymous with a trip to see the highest mountain in the world – Everest, or Sagarmatha as the mountain is known to the locals. Whether you are a seasoned mountaineer or a first timer it’s possible to find treks to suit you. The traditional Hillary route is an 18 day trek to base camp from the end of the Kathmandu road which takes you through pine forests, past waterfalls and Buddhist monasteries, or you can fly into Lukla which takes you to an 8 day trip. Considered the most dangerous airport in the world, it is situated at the top of a sheer cliff which means that both take and landing have an added ‘will we/ won’t we’ thrill. Guaranteed that when you finally glimpse the glinting white summit all that walking will be worth it, and keep your eyes peeled for yeti tracks (casual mention).
 
Nepal is predominantly a Hindu country that has been described as India’s more friendly younger sibling. The country is a riot of colour, smells and festivals. Just strolling through one of capital city Kathmandu’s yellow earth alleys, you are likely to encounter shops offering bolts of rainbow coloured silks for saris, a multitude of metalware that looks like it has been recently discovered by Indiana Jones and usually a few colour-daubed shrines complete with offerings of rice, marigold flowers and incense. Depending of the time of year you may find yourself at all manner of festivals, from Holi, the festival of colour which welcomes Spring, to Teej which is considered the ‘women’s festival’ or of course, Diwali, famed festival of lights. Kathmandu is also home to the ‘living goddess’. She is one of Nepal’s more unusual aspects; a pre-pubescent girl is chosen after being examined on her levels of perfection – even down to eye colour and the shape of her teeth. Girls with the right horoscope and other attributes then undergo a terrifying ordeal where they spend the night in a temple in the ancient Durbar Square, surrounded by decapitated buffalo. Those children who are not affected by these unusual proceedings can be considered for goddess-hood. She peeks through a window at a waiting crowd at 4pm everyday before disappearing with a shy giggle to continue her studies.
 
One of Nepal’s greatest attributes is its jungles. Home to one-horned rhino, leopards, tigers, sloth bears and elephants – to name but a few, time spent in a reserve such as Chitwain National Park is hugely rewarding. Unlike India it is legal to actually walk around the reserves with a guide, which is a far more insightful experience than you’re likely to obtain from the back of a tourist-laden jeep. With the right guide you can actually learn about tracking tigers, smelling rhinos, and how to determine to size and sex of a tiger from its prints. Whether you’d be lucky enough to actually see one is another matter – although it is more likely that the tiger will see you.
 
Pokhara is a Nepalese equivalent to the sea-side; a vast expanse of lake where families and pleasure seekers hire out rowing boats and spend the day heating in the sun and swimming in the lake, although most Nepalese can’t swim. The six hour bus journey will certainly set your heart pounding as you wind around hairpin bends with the occasional bus skeleton resting at the bottom of steep cliffs, however the pace of life at Pokhara is ideal for a little R&R. Take a stroll up the lush forested hills to see the folly-esque temple and take in the crisp white contrast of the Himalayas.
 
 
A natural progression from Pokhara is the three hours journey towards Lumbini, birth place of the Buddha. This is where the Buddha apparently lived until the age of 29 and is a tranquil place to spend a day. Relax under the Bodhi tree by the green water bond and watch pilgrims leave gifts of colourful flags around the gnarled old trunk. There are various temples and pagodas to check out as well as museums and Buddha inspired art. These are best explored at a lazy pace by renting an old fashioned bicycle. This spiritual home of modern day Buddhism makes for peaceful pit stop before you make your way across the border and into India.

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